As
I tucked myself in for the night, I could hear the sound of drums resonating from
across the river. I smiled.
We were camped in Eden Valley, west of Longview Alberta and our
neighbors were members of the Bearspaw Nakoda Sioux First Nation. I have always
loved this valley surrounding the Upper Highwood River and it was my last night
of four spent back at this gateway to the Rocky Mountains. It had been a good few days.
 |
| Mount Armstrong |
We were there to hike and Wednesday we wandered up
Highway 40, which is closed and gated for the winter at Highwood House. It was
nice to be able to walk up the paved road past amazing views of the Highwood
River and Mount Armstrong. The rocky great divide summits of Mounts Muir and
McPhail (known as the Pyramid) were visible above the grassy open slopes of the
Strawberry Hills. We made a return trip to Strawberry Equestrian Campground
under Azure skies. It was cool as it usually is in the Highwood, even under the
uninterrupted glare of the sun. The day's outing was an unusual type of hike,
but a good warm-up with a backpack at mountain altitudes. I found myself
thinking of the possibilities of making a lengthy backpack up the Highway that
is closed until June 15 and the many possible side trips that radiate from the
roadway. It would be nice to have the valley to oneself.
The second day began with an abortive walk down
Cataract Creek from the campground. We decided to cut that lackluster thrash
short and instead venture up Fir Creek in the Bull Creek Hills. That turned out
to be an excellent choice. It had probably been over twenty five years since I
had ventured up Fir Creek and I had honestly forgotten what a pretty hike it was.
The display of early season wildflowers was the most amazing one that I have
ever seen at an altitude lower than subalpine. We counted over twenty varieties
of flowering
plants. The compressed growing season means that one can see early spring
flowers, such as prairie crocus (anemone) on a hillside next to the first few red
paintbrush. We spent hours hiking and stopping to identify flowers.
Day 3 was definitely the most spectacular of the bunch, as we
returned to the Bull Creek Hills and headed north up Pack Trail Coulee to the
aptly named Grass Pass. From the pass, I looked south down the u-shaped glacially
carved valley to the river 450 metres below. Across the river another valley
mirrors Pack Trail Coulee - Zephyr Creek valley cuts south between the Bear
Creek Hills and Mount Burke. Looking out of the mouth of either valley provides
excellent views of the opposite one. We have spent many days over the years
wandering both valleys in spring, summer and fall. I must caution those that might
be tempted to cross the Highwood in the spring. The river may be higher in the
afternoon and evening than when you initially forded its ice cold waters in the
early morning light. There's nothing more galling and potentially dangerous
than being stranded for a cold night within sight of your waiting vehicle.
 |
| Looking down Pack Trail Coulee toward Highwood River and Zephyr Creek valley. |
I have used the
trail to Grass Pass and beyond as an early season conditioning hike over the
years, because it is usually snow-free due to the Chinook
Winds that rip through the Highwood Gap. The Chinooks are a major component in
the shaping of the stark environment of this unique section of the eastern
slopes. The strangely beautiful and twisted limber pine that dot the summits of
the hills are evidence of the power of these warm westerly winds. The most
celebrated of these ancient trees is the "Boundary Pine", a
particularly old and gnarled specimen, which features in Raymond Patterson's
bestselling book "The Buffalo Head". It was once the southern
boundary of the old ranch that reached well into the Bull Creek Hills in older
days. We climbed up from the pass and walked along Fir Creek Point (peering
down on the previous day's setting) until we found the famous tree and I took
some time to shoot video from various angles. I plan on using the footage for a
segment in an upcoming film.
 |
| Looking toward Grass pass from the Boundary Pine. Holy Cross Mountain and Mount Head in the background. |
As I drifted off to sleep that final spring night in
the Highwood, I felt an elation that has eluded me for some years. There are
so many magnificent places in the Rocky Mountains that (after a time) one can't
help becoming jaded. Life itself can tire a person and make them more cynical
about the world. Depression is like wearing blinders that shield us from the
beauty all around us. After a few days in the Rockies under azure blue skies,
surrounded by wildflowers, trees, meadows and those lovely hills and mountains,
the old thoughts and dreams began to return. Once again I can look at these
mountains and valleys and see the possibilities. Excitement is building knowing
that very soon I will be returning to these mountainous heights to begin the
journey of a lifetime.
